The pleats pleas by Issey Miyake brings out a new women's fragrance in September 2012. Pleats Please – “the perfume that moves you” – is named after the signature fashion collection of pleated materials and bright colors that follow movements of the body, first introduced in 1993. This fragrance returns to fashion inspiration, pop culture and Japanese tradition of the house.
Pleats Please is a joyful, optimistic and exuberant fragrance of "vertically pleated" flowery, fruity and woody structure signed by perfumer Aurelien Guichard. Its opening splashes with Asian hybrid fruit Nashi, generated by crossing apples and pears (pear flavor is the one that dominates). The heart symbolizes femininity with floral accords of peony and sweet pea, while Indole molecule provides freshness and vigor to the composition. The base is generous with intensive accords of patchouli, cedar, vanilla absolute and white musk.
The design of the bottle follows the design of the Bio Bag from the Pleats Please collection, decorated with the cap made as a stylized white flower. The fragrance is available as 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette with additional body lotion and deodorant spray.
Pleats Please is vibrant and effervescent right from the word go, with top notes of crisp, dewy pear (‘nashi’ is Asian Pear) and an assortment of glassy pink berries. Unlike many fruity fragrances, Pleats Please has the right balance of sugar and doesn’t feel too thick – it’s not going to be giving anyone toothache.
As far as fruity florals go, Pleats Please certainly places its emphasis on the fruits rather than the flowers, with the heart of the fragrance playing out delicate wisps of pastel pink roses and peonies.
Despite the presence of indole in the notes (indole is the funky, animalic smell found in many white flowers such as jasmine) Pleats Please is entirely clean but one can’t help but feel a little bit of flower funk would go a little way to making things a bit more textured – perhaps we’ll see a Pleats Please Intense in the future?
In the base Pleats Please feels like a far cry from the vivacious and sparkly fragrance it started out as. Warm, comforting notes of vanilla and musk give things a soft and plush feel, rounding the fragrance off with in subtle, velvety tones.Issey Miyake Pleats Please may not be a dramatic work of olfactory art but it does stand out amongst other fragrances of a similar nature because of its subtle approach to well-established themes. With gentle execution it displays the modern fruity floral as an every-day fragrance with stripes of colour to give it a touch of designer flare.